Spot you in Dalmatia
An Insider's Guide from Auckland to the Adriatic
Words: Vanya Piacun
Photography:
Vila Dalmacija at the top end of New North Road is a little slice of the Adriatic in Auckland. It's the heart of Auckland's Dalmatian community and on Friday nights, the building hums with music, singing, language classes, and children learning traditional kolo dances, on the enormous dancefloor. Dalmatian Cultural Society members share a meal, play cards, and reconnect with each other, and their roots.
It's not just on Fridays. The building is busy through the week with dance practices, meetings, and events. The ballroom and members' lounge host club functions, community celebrations, weddings and private parties.
While members come from across the former Yugoslavia, most-like me - trace their ancestry to Croatia's spectacular Dalmatian Coast, especially the Makarska Riviera. Places like Podgora, Tučepi, Živogošće, Drvenik, Gradac, and the islands - Brač, Hvar, and Korčula. They may be hard to pronounce, but they're even harder to not love.
Each New Zealand winter, the community here thins out as members make the 30-hour pilgrimage "back home." If you missed out on the Dalmatian summer this year, it's time to start dreaming of 2026. To help you plan, here's an insider's guide to doing Dalmatia right- where to go, what to eat, how to get around, and how to travel like a Dally.
WHEN TO TRAVEL
The high season of July and August can be intense - hot, crowded, and chaotic. I reckon September/October is the best time. Once school resumes across Europe in early September, the beaches clear out, and the coast settles into a gentler pace. The sea is still warm, the weather's usually glorious, and you'll avoid the worst of the crowds.
Just be aware that travelling in the shoulder season can mean fewer ferries and some reduced services, so check ahead.
GETTING THERE
Fly into Split or Dubrovnik - for me, they're both great to visit, but not to holiday in. Stay somewhere smaller, close by. Trogir is gorgeous, and closer to Split Airport than Split itself is. If you land in Dubrovnik, stay in Cavtat, and visit the old city by boat.
From Dubrovnik, there's a fast ferry that can get you to Korčula, Hvar, and onto Makarska by early evening. Quicker and more relaxing than going by car or bus.
Getting there can be pricey. As an option, consider flying into Belgrade (in neighbouring Serbia) - it can be a lot cheaper. Spend a day exploring, then catch a connecting 1-hour flight to the coast, or build some overland travel into your trip.
EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Like anywhere, the best meals are usually not in in the tourist-focused restaurants. They'll often be found in unassuming little places that you'd never find without directions, so ask a local where they would go. Not that most of them dine out much - so if you can get invited to their homes for a meal, all the better.
Look for signs advertising peka, meltingly tender slow-cooked lamb, veal, or - my favourite - octopus with potatoes and vegetables under a bell-shaped iron lid covered in coals. You often need to order this the day before. Do it, it's worth it. Then there's ćevapi, small hand-shaped grilled sausages, made from a mix of beef, lamb, and pork mince. Served with bread, onion and ajvar, the most delicious capsicum relish (which you can buy in supermarkets in NZ). Simple, yummy and satisfying. And lamb - or janjetina. We Dalmatians love our spit-roast lamb - cooked over embers at all the biggest celebrations. But it's hard to beat what you'll find just an hour's drive over the border at roadside restaurants in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Large portions, and great prices. Remember your passport, though - you'll be leaving the EU for the day. Then there's sweets. Try fritule (or pršule depending where you come from) - little doughnuts rolled in sugar, served still warm. Every family claims theirs are the best, but they're wrong: the best ones are at Vila Dalmacija!
SOAK IN THE CULTURE
Catch an etno večer (ethnic evening) with live tamburica (mandolin) music and kolo dancing - just like the dances we learn and perform at our club. Or stumble upon a ribarska večer - fishermen's night - at the local town or village. They can be a bit touristy, but they're fun evenings filled with local seafood, wine, and more music and dancing.
Better yet, plan around a saint's day. In Podgora, Sveti Vicenco (St Vincent) is honoured on the third Sunday in August with Mass, celebrations on the waterfront, and ending with a huge concert and fire- works. Not to mention lots of food. It's the highlight of summer in the town. In Pupnat on Korčula, Gospa od Sniga (Our Lady of the Snow) is marked on August 5th with Mass, klapa singing, and communal feasting under the stars.
Don't over-plan or try to do too much. That's my biggest tip for anyone visiting Dalmatia for the first time. The temptation is to squeeze everything in, with a day here, a day there - but resist. Getting around isn't always easy. Buses and ferries can run late or be cancelled, and timetables rarely align. Instead, pick a base - ideally a small town or village- and settle into the local rhythm. Forget FOMO: the entire coast is beautiful, and staying put won't mean missing out. In fact, you'll get to know the place and its people far better.
Take day trips, but not every day. Have coffee with locals. Swim in the warmest, clearest, most buoyant water - and bring aqua shoes. Dalmatian beaches are almost all pebbled, with stones that can be tough on feet fresh from a New Zealand winter.
Don't stress about booking everything in advance. Accommodation, yes - especially in peak season. But ferries, tours and excursions? Not always necessary. Many small operators don't take online bookings, and even the larger ones often prefer in- person arrangements - and cash. Want to get out on the water? Take an evening šetnja (stroll) by the waterfront and ask around for a boat trip.
And learn the word polako. It means slowly, and it's the best way to enjoy the place.
FINAL WORD
For me, Dalmatia is more than a holiday destination. It's family. It's connection. It's a second home. But whether you're planning your first trip or your fifteenth, don't wait too long. Because when winter rolls around in Auckland, and the skies stay grey for days, you'll want to be the one posting photos of crystal blue water, grilled sardines, and golden sunsets.
Trust me. Živili!
And when you can't be there, join us at Vila Dalmacija, where the culture, the food, and the connections live on. Keep an eye on our events page, dalmatian.org.nz/events-list, or follow us on Instagram.
It's not just on Fridays. The building is busy through the week with dance practices, meetings, and events. The ballroom and members' lounge host club functions, community celebrations, weddings and private parties.
While members come from across the former Yugoslavia, most-like me - trace their ancestry to Croatia's spectacular Dalmatian Coast, especially the Makarska Riviera. Places like Podgora, Tučepi, Živogošće, Drvenik, Gradac, and the islands - Brač, Hvar, and Korčula. They may be hard to pronounce, but they're even harder to not love.
Each New Zealand winter, the community here thins out as members make the 30-hour pilgrimage "back home." If you missed out on the Dalmatian summer this year, it's time to start dreaming of 2026. To help you plan, here's an insider's guide to doing Dalmatia right- where to go, what to eat, how to get around, and how to travel like a Dally.
WHEN TO TRAVEL
The high season of July and August can be intense - hot, crowded, and chaotic. I reckon September/October is the best time. Once school resumes across Europe in early September, the beaches clear out, and the coast settles into a gentler pace. The sea is still warm, the weather's usually glorious, and you'll avoid the worst of the crowds.
Just be aware that travelling in the shoulder season can mean fewer ferries and some reduced services, so check ahead.
GETTING THERE
Fly into Split or Dubrovnik - for me, they're both great to visit, but not to holiday in. Stay somewhere smaller, close by. Trogir is gorgeous, and closer to Split Airport than Split itself is. If you land in Dubrovnik, stay in Cavtat, and visit the old city by boat.
From Dubrovnik, there's a fast ferry that can get you to Korčula, Hvar, and onto Makarska by early evening. Quicker and more relaxing than going by car or bus.
Getting there can be pricey. As an option, consider flying into Belgrade (in neighbouring Serbia) - it can be a lot cheaper. Spend a day exploring, then catch a connecting 1-hour flight to the coast, or build some overland travel into your trip.
EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Like anywhere, the best meals are usually not in in the tourist-focused restaurants. They'll often be found in unassuming little places that you'd never find without directions, so ask a local where they would go. Not that most of them dine out much - so if you can get invited to their homes for a meal, all the better.
Look for signs advertising peka, meltingly tender slow-cooked lamb, veal, or - my favourite - octopus with potatoes and vegetables under a bell-shaped iron lid covered in coals. You often need to order this the day before. Do it, it's worth it. Then there's ćevapi, small hand-shaped grilled sausages, made from a mix of beef, lamb, and pork mince. Served with bread, onion and ajvar, the most delicious capsicum relish (which you can buy in supermarkets in NZ). Simple, yummy and satisfying. And lamb - or janjetina. We Dalmatians love our spit-roast lamb - cooked over embers at all the biggest celebrations. But it's hard to beat what you'll find just an hour's drive over the border at roadside restaurants in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Large portions, and great prices. Remember your passport, though - you'll be leaving the EU for the day. Then there's sweets. Try fritule (or pršule depending where you come from) - little doughnuts rolled in sugar, served still warm. Every family claims theirs are the best, but they're wrong: the best ones are at Vila Dalmacija!
SOAK IN THE CULTURE
Catch an etno večer (ethnic evening) with live tamburica (mandolin) music and kolo dancing - just like the dances we learn and perform at our club. Or stumble upon a ribarska večer - fishermen's night - at the local town or village. They can be a bit touristy, but they're fun evenings filled with local seafood, wine, and more music and dancing.
Better yet, plan around a saint's day. In Podgora, Sveti Vicenco (St Vincent) is honoured on the third Sunday in August with Mass, celebrations on the waterfront, and ending with a huge concert and fire- works. Not to mention lots of food. It's the highlight of summer in the town. In Pupnat on Korčula, Gospa od Sniga (Our Lady of the Snow) is marked on August 5th with Mass, klapa singing, and communal feasting under the stars.
Don't over-plan or try to do too much. That's my biggest tip for anyone visiting Dalmatia for the first time. The temptation is to squeeze everything in, with a day here, a day there - but resist. Getting around isn't always easy. Buses and ferries can run late or be cancelled, and timetables rarely align. Instead, pick a base - ideally a small town or village- and settle into the local rhythm. Forget FOMO: the entire coast is beautiful, and staying put won't mean missing out. In fact, you'll get to know the place and its people far better.
Take day trips, but not every day. Have coffee with locals. Swim in the warmest, clearest, most buoyant water - and bring aqua shoes. Dalmatian beaches are almost all pebbled, with stones that can be tough on feet fresh from a New Zealand winter.
Don't stress about booking everything in advance. Accommodation, yes - especially in peak season. But ferries, tours and excursions? Not always necessary. Many small operators don't take online bookings, and even the larger ones often prefer in- person arrangements - and cash. Want to get out on the water? Take an evening šetnja (stroll) by the waterfront and ask around for a boat trip.
And learn the word polako. It means slowly, and it's the best way to enjoy the place.
FINAL WORD
For me, Dalmatia is more than a holiday destination. It's family. It's connection. It's a second home. But whether you're planning your first trip or your fifteenth, don't wait too long. Because when winter rolls around in Auckland, and the skies stay grey for days, you'll want to be the one posting photos of crystal blue water, grilled sardines, and golden sunsets.
Trust me. Živili!
And when you can't be there, join us at Vila Dalmacija, where the culture, the food, and the connections live on. Keep an eye on our events page, dalmatian.org.nz/events-list, or follow us on Instagram.