A newcomer's guide to Uptown
Words: Carolyn Enting
Photography: Blink Ltd.
Sometimes it takes a newcomer to see a neighbourhood with fresh eyes.
Having recently moved to Uptown from Waiheke Island, former chef and peony farmer Craig Olsen has been busy exploring the neighbourhood's many gems. He shares a few of his favourite discoveries here.
Good Form
As a fan of mid-century modern design, Mr Bigglesworthy in Ponsonby was already on Craig's radar, so when he discovered that the founders Emma and Dan Eagle had opened Good Form just two blocks away, he took it as another good sign for making Uptown his base.
The modern space is devoted to beautiful design and contemporary living. The gallery represents the best of both New Zealand and international talent, while the couple continue to curate and offer premium vintage design and authentic mid- century furniture.
On his latest visit to Good Form, Craig took with him some classic 1970s Italian wool throws in classic mid-century colours. "I have a huge admiration for the fact that they saw a trend coming before it happened and they go beyond the call of duty to sell what they've got. You can tell that they are passionate. I love that they restore pieces and you get the sense that they're encouraging you to love these pieces as a guardian. It's living history made relevant for today."
Good Form
86 Newton Rd
Hard to Find Books
Seeking out Hard to Find Books was the reason Craig discovered Uptown. He wanted to rehome a collection of specialist books that belonged to his late partner Hamish. He made multiple trips from Waiheke with bags of books and subsequently fell in love with the area. He calls the North Island Manager, and Auckland store manager, Shalon Ewington, "the book whisperer" and "a true romantic." Shalon has been the buyer for more than 30 years and she is passionate about books. "She is to Hard to Find Books what the SPCA is with rehoming cats."
Hard to Find Books recently moved around the corner from St Benedict's St to 4 Glenside Crescent, Eden Terrace, which Craig describes as "a maze" set up in the basement of what was formerly the John W Andrew building (also home to Southbound Records on the Symonds St side)."My passion for 19th century literature is enhanced when I can read vintage editions which speak of an earlier era. Hard to Find Books provides me with that immersive experience." The latest book he has purchased is American Notes by Charles Dickens for $8.
Hard to Find Books
4 Glenside Cres
Basque Park
Craig's apartment overlooks Basque Park and its fountain-both key reasons he chose to move here. "The amazing thing is that I can hear the fountain night and day and I forget that the motorway is so close. It's just so peaceful. To be perfectly honest, the moment I found the apartment I knew I had to live there and that... that was how I was going to leave Waiheke, where I've been surrounded by green for 15 years. I see Basque Park as my green lung."
On Waiheke he helped restore native bush ahead of the recent kiwi release. An experienced conservationist, he knows a moth plant - one of Auckland's most devastating weeds - when he sees it. With direct access to Basque Park, he admits his fingers are itching, which has led to occasional guerilla weeding missions. "It started because I saw a woolly nightshade growing over the path."
He has now discovered he is not the only neighbour who wants to enhance this much-loved park. "Only in Uptown would I feel brave enough to do this! We all think that the Council should do everything, but they can't and they've got limited resources, so I see it as relieving some of their problems."
Basque Park
Exmouth St
Carmel
Craig started his career in silver service and trained as a chef when he and Hamish opened a cinema café in Nelson. He loves food and appreciates good front-of-house service, which is what he has found at Carmel on France St. Carmel serves outstanding Israeli street food - people line up for its Cheeky Chicken Pita and welcoming service, and Craig has happily joined the queue.
His first taste was a loaf of challah- plaited Jewish bread - that he bought from Carmel at a Basque Park Fair, which led him to track them down. He was surprised to find they are only open three days a week. "That told me that there is something extra special here. Rather than being open all hours, there's something to this."
Special little touches include customers being presented with a little falafel on a stick to enjoy while they wait for their order - keeping true to their motto that they guarantee fast food no matter how long you wait.
"There's a sense of generosity and a joyfulness and buzz that you want to be part of."
After a few visits, he formally introduced himself by gifting a welcomed 10-litre bucket of his Waiheke homegrown figs to proprietor, Kiwi-born Carmel Davidovitch.
Craig usually orders the special of the day, but is working his way through the menu which includes a cabinet of sweet pastries.
Carmel
67b France St
Isadia
Florist Isadia was officially Craig's first Uptown encounter last year when he admired a floral display at Hotel Britomart and enquired who was the creator. Later, a close friend surprised Craig with a massive "very Gothic" Bronte-inspired bouquet from Isadia for his mid-winter birthday - all brown and autumnal.
Not knowing what awaited him, he followed instructions to Kelly St and found himself walking into floral studio which was once an old brick bakery. "It was chronically romantic, and Isabel Johnston and Lydia Reusser of Isadia have a signature look that is wild and loose yet stylish," he says.
Isadia later created for Craig, in spring, an Ikebana-esque display of 10 individual Red Charm peonies - some with crooked stems, all at different stages of petal unfurling. A nostalgic tribute to his peony-farming days in Nelson.
Isadia
1a Kelly St
