Look Sharp

Words: Russell Brown

As the 1970s dawned in New Zealand, the newspapers were reporting the death of the barbershop. In one six- month stretch in 1971, 64 barbershops closed down in Auckland alone – and the barbers who managed to keep trading were reportedly almost all

over the age of 55.


A number of factors were behind the apparent demise of a trade that had come here with the first settlers. For one thing, barbers no longer had a near-monopoly on the sale of tobacco, which would remain popular for some time yet. But mostly, the baby boomers were coming through and their men had no use for the short back and sides haircut that had sustained the nation's barbers since the early 20th century.


The barbers, it must be said, were not helping themselves. When young men did turn up looking for something more sophisticated for their long, effeminate counter-culture hair, it was not unknown for them to be turfed out by an angry barber. And while the concept of men's hairdressing had been gaining momentum in the previous decade, it was the hairdressers who had traditionally served women who paid attention. National pop dreamboat Mr Lee Grant did not have his Sassoon- style bangs tended by his father's barber.


Barbershops, which for much of the century had been the place where men could congregate for smokes, sly betting, dirty magazines and condoms, didn't seem to have a reason to exist any more. And the actual haircutting, by all accounts, was rubbish.


And yet, here we are in 2021, when hipster websites list the best barbers in each suburb (and some suburbs have a lot to choose from) and a new culture around an old trade is flourishing. So what happened and how was the barbershop saved?


One theory is that immigrants, especially from the Middle East, arrived and brought more vital traditions with them. The fashion in men's hairstyles and beards has changed dramatically too, in response to what was worn in sports and popular culture, and the barber's trimmer was suddenly relevant again. But whatever the reason, the barbershop is back – and the barbers are generally much younger than 55.


Uptown, which had its share of bad-boy barbers a century ago, is no exception. There are two barbershops within a kilometre of each other, each expressing a distinct vibe.


Eden Barbers, which is nearing its 20th year at 29A Mount Eden Road near the Powerstation, presents a cool retro aesthetic: mid-century trimmings, exotic lounge art on the walls and a row of salvaged cinema seats for punters to await their cuts. There are no bookings and a relaxed atmosphere and cuts cost from $20 to $35. Did we mention that Galbraith's is just across the road?


Meanwhile at 225 Symonds Street, Ultimate Barber Styles adopts the classic barber pole stripes and offers a range of cuts and trims that has made it a favourite with the likes of screen star Te Kohe Tuhaka (The Dead Lands) and many in the combat sports community. UFC Middleweight Champion Israel Adesanya has been glimpsed there more than once – and never gets away without a selfie!


Another regular is Jack Perry, digital sales manager at Boost My Business, who left this review on Facebook. "Since I left England I haven't found a barber like Ultimate Barber Styles. They are unbelievable at the classic skin fades and beard trims, but have such a cool presence as well! Great service, great music and amusements, friendly banter and all round positive vibes. Would recommend to anybody!" 

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